February 07 Conditions

Monday 26th February 2007

We had an awesome day on the Traverse of Liathach today. While the International Meet joined the crowds on The Ben we met one other party on this spectacular Torridon peak. I was working for Adventure Peaks today.

There was fresh snow down to 500m this morning and the rocks on the summit ridge had verglas on them. We are due to have some more snow tomorrow.

Friday 23rd February 2007

Gillian and I had a great day out in Coire an t-Sneachda. We went up Aladdin's Couloir, down the Goat Track, up Goat Track Gully and finally down Fiachaill Ridge. Not bad for Gillians first winter Scottish climbs.

There was a mild Southerly breeze blowing and it was thawing all day, but there was one brief snow shower.

Wednesday 21st February 2007

It was quite busy today on the East Face of Aonach Mor. I was out with Raymond and we did Right Twin and Pernille. The snow and ice in the gullies is excellent but with the mild temperatures the turf is not very frozen. There were teams on Left Twin, Maneater, The Web, Stirling Bridge and Siamese Buttress.

A freeze last night has left the well consolidated snow very stable. The mist lingered for much of the day but below the mist it was very warm and sunny.

Sunday 18th February 2007

This photo was kindly sent in by Matt of Newcastle Uni Mountaineering Club. It shows one of their club on Goat Track Gully in Coire an t-Sneachda in the Northern Corries. They also did Central Gully.

Alpha Mountaineering instructor Andy took 3 other members of the club out on their first graded climb. They went up Aladdin's Couloir and came down Fiacaill Ridge.

The above photos were sent in by Andy. They show Indicator Wall high on the Ben. If you look closely you can see folk on Indicator Wall, Psychedelic Wall and Caledonia.

Saturday 17th February 2007

I was out with a group from Newcastle University Mountaineering Club today. We had a great day looking at advanced winter skills like emergency rope work and snow belays. There were snow showers throughout the day but it was not that cold. It was a busy day on many routes with reports of soft snowy conditions.

The photo here was kindly sent in by Andy who went to look at the North Face of Aonach Beag with Neil, Tristan and Cheese. This is his report: "Unfortunately none of the big ice routes were in at all. Well, Camilla had ice on the first pitch, but Royal Pardon was black rock. We went to go down to do the north east ridge but got seduced by this little ice fall on the side. It ended up being grim unconsolidated and thin so had to downclimb and abandon. Oh well. Still good day to be out. Was quite heavy spindrift avalanches coming down the whole day too."

Thursday 15th February 2007

A mild SW airflow is affecting much of Scotland. There were 80mph winds at Cairngorm today and it was hard to stand in the carpark. Trees on the approach road near Loch Morlich had also been blown over.

Tuesday 13th February 2007

I was out again with Emma and Dan today. We had a great day in Aladdin's Couloir which had plenty of snow in it. The snow was consolidated well and with a freeze will turn to neve. We had some great views for their first winter climb.

There were folk out on Central Gully, The Runnel and The Slant. Two teams on Jacobs Ladder looked like they were in for an interesting time with the corniced top. Sheila and friends climbed Doctor's Choice which looked thin.

Monday 12th February 2007

I took Emma and Dan into the Northern Cairngorms today. We looked at basic winter skills including kicking steps, cutting steps, cramponing, how to arrest a slide with an ice axe and how to navigate in a whiteout. I was working for Extreme Dream today.

The day started with sun, wind and great views but by lunchtime the cloud dropped and the wind stopped. It was very calm and warm on the summits today. The fresh windslab that built up over the weekend is beginning to consolidate.

Friday 9th February 2007

Gareth and I had an awesome day today on Scyscraper Buttress in the Fannichs. This 4 star route on the main crag of Sgurr nan Clach Gaela has a 3 hour approach from car to route start. It doesn't get many ascents and today we had the crag to ourselves again.

Although it started sunny the strong cold SW wind brought in cloud but no more snow. On the exposed headwall the temperatures plummeted and trying not to get blown off added to the interest.

Thursday 8th February 2007

I took Eileen, Mark and Amy up Stac Pollaidh today. There were heavy snow showers down to sea level with a cold Easterly wind. In between the showers we had some spectacular views North across Inverpolly National Nature Reserve. We could even see snow on Harris on the Outer Hebrides.

Wednesday 7th February 2007

It was a fantastic day today in the Northern Corries. I was out with Raymond and Alan enjoying the cold, still, sunny, clear weather. We climbed Central Gully in Coire an t-Sneachda where the fresh layer of powder snow made it a little harder than normal.

Tuesday 6th February 2007

After the mild weather of last week the plants thought it was spring. There has been an abrupt change with a cold Northerly and snow falling across the NE Highlands down to sea level in places, including Inverness.

Saturday 3rd February 2007

It was a cold sunny dry day in Coire an t-Sneachda today. Nic and Mark both led some pitchs up the gully line known locally as 0.5 Gully. The snow that is left in the coire is excellent hard neve. We looked at rock anchors and multi-pitch rope work. The buttresses looked good for rock climbing today.

Friday 2nd February 2007

I took Nic and Mark into Coire an Lochain today and we looked at snow belays and the basics of winter ropework. We had a cold clear day with some fantastic views.

It was below freezing in the coire and there was a cold NW wind blowing. There was a dusting of snow on the tops last night, but the buttresses are black after the last few days of thawing.