December 09 Conditions

Thursday 31st December 2009

Conditions in the North West Highlands

Yesterday I was out with Lisa and Mike. We had a great day on Beinn Bhan in Applecross. We climbed the Traverse of a' Chioch which is an excellent grade 2 mountaineering ridge. It was warmer today with 3 degrees at sea level, the freezing level at 600m and -3 on the summit. Ice is beginning to form but Silver Tear still looked a bit too thin to climb.

We had great views towards Skye and Torridon in between the blustery snow showers which came in on a strong north easterly wind. We found some incredibly large surface hoar crystals which when covered with newly deposited snow will give a particularly weak layer in the snow pack. Keep an eye on the Avalanche Forecast and have a fun and safe Hogmanay.

Sunday 27th December 2009

A Snowy Lake District and news from North Wales

I was out in the Lakes with Jack and Harry today. We a had an excellent post festivites walk in the Southern lakes.

The snow was heavy and deep on The Old Man of Coniston. A light northerly wind and low cloud greeted us on the summit.

Earlier this week down in Wales Andy and Stu made the second ascent of Cracking Up. This IX,9 put up by Nick Bullock 3 years ago has been awaiting it's second ascent. For more info check out Baggy's Blog

Friday 25th December 2009

Happy Christmas

Merry Christmas everyone and have a great Hogmanay. I hope you all had safe journeys home for Christmas in the wild wintery conditions.

It looks like the freezing temperatures will continue into the new year with more snow over the Scottish hills.

Saturday 19th December 2009

Wild weather on the hills and snow at sea level

Today I headed into Corrie an T-sneachda with Martin. After viewing a moderate sized avalanche on the broken ground to the right of Jacob's Ladder we found some well scoured terrain to the left of Mess of Pottage. Here we had a great wee climb through some grade 1/2 territory.

Today was even colder than yesterday with -6°C on the tops. With the strong northerly wind it felt a lot colder and there was an extended period of snowfall in the middle of the day.

Friday 18th December 2009

Another cold day in the Northern Corries

Martin and I had a day out doing some mountaineering. We first looked at snow belays like bucket seats and buried ice axes and then we headed up to make an ascent of Fiacaill Ridge.

It started off clear and windless but by midday the cold front had arrived from the north with fresh snow falling on a north westerly breeze. Like yesterday it was -5°C on the tops.

There were a couple of teams out on the buttresses of Corrie an Locahin but yet again Corrie an T-sneachda was attracting the crowds with many routes getting ascended.

Thursday 17th December 2009

Fresh snow and sub zero temperatures

Today in the Northern Cairngorms it was -5°C on the tops. It felt even colder in the Easterly breeze. The snow that fell overnight was getting blown onto Westerly aspects and the old snow is frozen solid. Don't forget to check the SAIS website for the avalanche forecast. Tomorrow is the first day of this winters new avalanche report.

I was out with Martin doing some winter skills. We practised ice axe arrest and learnt to use crampons for the first time. Martin climbed his first Munro (Cairngorm 1245m) and we had to navigate off the hill in low cloud.

Corrie an T-sneachda looked busy with climbers. Mark and Robert did a couple of routes on Mess of Pottage and said it was great.

Wednesday 16th December 2009

Climbing Report form the Northern Corries

Andy sent me this report from yesterday in Corrie an T-sneachda:

“Hi Nick, was out in sneachda today - pretty mild with thawing at all levels in the northern corries. Did The Message with Kenny and Guy. A bit damp but great climbing with good amounts of neve and ice - if it refreezes could be stellar.” Thanks Andy for the report and the photos.

With a low pressure dominating the forecast and cold fronts descending from the north east it looks like we are going to have more snow down to lower levels over the next week. Maybe we'll have a white Christmas.

Sunday 13th December 2009

Another beautiful day in the highlands

I was out with Deziree today in coire an t-sneachda in the Northern Cairngorms. It was quite busy with many parties on both snow and buttress routes. There isn't much ice formed just yet.

Again there was a temperature inversion with -5 in Aviemore, zero at the car park and +3 on the tops. Today there was very little wind to start but then by midday a light northerly picked up.

We did Fiachaill Couloir which wasn't too busy although the Seam looked like it was about to get even more traffic.

Friday 11th December 2009

Blue skies and sunshine above the fog

Once I was above the fog in the Moray Firth we had unbroken sunshine all day. Mike, Anna and I had a great day out in the Cairngorms. We had a beautiful winter walk over to Ben Macdui.

It was freezing in the glens but 3 degrees on the summits. A classic temperature inversion. There was a slight southerly breeze which made it feel colder.

The buttresses were quite busy with climbers today. Mark, Deziree and Soup did Burning and Looting on Fiachaill Buttress and said there was a lot of snow to clear.

Tuesday 8th December 2009

New SAIS report format

On the 17th of December the Scottish Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) will resume their avalanche forecast and report service.

This year there is a new report format and it is worth looking at and familiarising yourself with it.

Wednesday 2nd December 2009

Mixed routes getting ticked on Ben Nevis

More excellent routes getting done on Ben Nevis earlier this week.

Di sent me this report from the Ben. “ Monday - Teamed up with Richard and Dave and climbed Sidewinder on South Trident Buttress. Followed the summer line – 3 short hard pitches + one nice pitch before topping out on a fantastic mountaineering ridge which took us to the summit plateau.”

Across on Number 3 Gully Buttress Pete and Martin climbed Sioux Wall. For more photos of their ascent see Pete's Gallery on UK Climbing.

Tuesday 1st December 2009

Winter report from the West

Looks like there has been plenty of snow in the west too.

Kenny and Andy did Un Poco Loco on Church Door Buttress on Bidean Nam Bian on Saturday. Also on Saturday at the other end of Glencoe Toby and Fran did Curved ridge along with 5 other parties. They found loads of snow from about half way up. See photos below.

On Sunday Kev and Fiona were out skiing touring on the Aonachs. Looks like they had a beautiful day for it.